Celebrating Get Outside Day in Kluane National Park, Yukon
There is something about the Yukon that holds our imaginations in a fever of wonder. Perhaps it’s the warm hue of its gold rush
history casting an optimistic glow, or maybe it's the miles and miles of incomparable and untrammelled wilderness... there's just this
palpable sense of excitement and possibility in the air. It’s a wild, rough, and unforgiving country, the kind that inspires people
towards magical thinking. Before we knew it we were gazing out over the rugged landscapes, imagining setting off into the wilds and
maybe even finding a few gold nuggets of our own, too.
Which is of course silly. We were headed to Kluane, a few hundred miles south of the storied Klondike gold fields, a place better
known for bears and glaciers than self-made fortunes. We were there to camp, hike, and explore the park for national Get Outside Day.
The only treasures in our future were some hard-won views of rugged mountains, and memories of warm-bodied well-spent days outside.
But these have a richness all their own.
A central part of the binational UNESCO Kluane - Wrangell - St. Elias - Glacier Bay - Tatshenshini-Alsek park system, Kluane's
spectacular glacier and icefield landscapes are home to some of the worlds most beautiful scenery. With many of the continent's highest
peaks (including the epic Mount Logan which clocks in at a whopping 5,959 m [19,551 ft]), the world’s largest non-polar icefield,
integral caribou and dall sheep habitat, aaaaand North America’s most genetically diverse grizzly bear population, it is handily
one of Canada's most stunning and essential parks, where superlatives seem to pile up quickly.
Stocking up on groceries, we set out on the 2hr drive from Whitehorse (the nearest city and large-ish airport...
though if you can you should definitely definitely
drive up through BC
— it’s amazing). Our first stop was Haines Junction, a picturesque little town with hotels, gas, and a couple tasty restaurants,
from where you can either head south to Haines, Alaska or east to Fairbanks. Over the next few days we regularly found
ourselves in town for hot cups of coffee, a slice of pizza or two, and all the cinnamon buns we could eat at the Village Bakery.
Kluane has a great selection of hikes, many of them week-long expeditions deep into the backcountry. Focussing our attentions
on the shorter day hikes, we set up a nice comfortable base camp on the shores of Dezadeash Lake from which to explore the area.
Prone to ferocious winds, the lake changed colour every couple hours from dull gray to green-brown to a deep vibrant shade
of turquoise blue that only looked more majestic the rougher the water got. It also made for a pretty nice swimming hole, with
the water surprisingly warm for such a northerly glacier lake... but still perfectly refreshing after a long hot summer day.
The Auriol Trail
Our first hike was a relatively easy one called the Auriol Trail. We had read that this was a popular and essential local trail,
short and sweet and not far from town. It's often used as a quick setting off point for longer hikes into the alpine, but we just
hiked the main loop through the woods to a little backcountry camp. Without the the alpine extensions, the Auriol is around 15km
and most of the inclines are pretty gradual. It was a hot sunny summer day though, and we still sweated buckets and downed all four of
our water bottles. We were glad indeed to splash some ice-cold creek water on our arms and faces.
Most of the trail either follows a creek or stays in the brush, so we were extra careful about continuously making noise in case
there were bears in the area. Kluane is prime grizzly and black bear habitat, and there are signs and reminders at most trailheads.
We mostly just saw them from the safety of our car, but its always good to be make some noise to be sure. Bears are most unpredictable
when startled, and bone-crushing strength, claws, and wild uncertainty are rarely a good combo.
But we didn't see any bears at all. Just some lakes and streams and mountains. The Auriol is a good looking little trail.
Sheep Creek Trail
For a more expansive view of the surrounding mountains, we recommend the Sheep Creek trail. Winding up into the mountains behind
the Tachäl Dhäl Visitor Centre at Kluane Lake, Sheep Creek is a great place to watch the resident Dall sheep in the spring and fall.
It's a 10km hike up above the ragged creek valley, with the option of an additional 5km on an unmaintained trail if you want to
head up the ridge to the top of the mountain. It shares a trailhead with the Boullion Plateau and the stunning 5 day
Slims River West trails, so there's plenty of reason to come out!
Sheep Creek offers sweeping views down the Ä’äy Chù (Slims River) valley, and you can just barely see the mighty Kaskawalsh glacier
carving its way down through the mountains in the hazy distance. It's shorter than the Auriol but is substantially steeper,
so plan on at least 3-4 hrs or so, more if you stop and take photos.
The King's Throne
One of Kluane's most popular day hikes, the King's Throne dominates the view from Kathleen Lake looking for all the world like a
volcano that blew its side off (or I guess kinda like a throne?). The days prior, we weren't quite sure which mountain it was and
were a little worried because they all looked steep and impossibly tall for a day hike, but thankfully the trail wasn't near as
difficult as all that. It's still a long ardous winding trail up the scrabbly rocky slopes, but it's switchback city and the views
make you forget your sweat.
The trail winds up and up to a cirque, which is where most people turn around, but again there's an unmaintained trail up the steep
scree to the top. Either way you're in for some stunning views up and down the valley. And there's always the chance at seeing some
wildlife, too: about halfway up we saw a big-eared black bear loping across the slopes below us, and clapped so it knew we were there.
It paused briefly, looked up at us, then continued on its way uninterested.
Hoping to beat the worst of the midday heat, we set out in the late afternoon. You quickly leave the forest and start ascending
bare open rocks, so try not to do it on a really hot day! But even on hot days the weather up top can be fickle, so at minimum
pack a windbreaker, as you can cool off at the top really quickly.
With 3 days in the park, we barely scratched the surface of what Kluane has to offer. There are a multitude of longer expeditions
to revisit and explore, but this time around it was really nice to just have some down time chilling at our campsite on Dezadeash Lake, too.
There are few finer things than rolling out of your sleeping bag for a brisk morning swim, making a leisurely camp breakfast,
or enjoying the mountain views with a coffee on the beach. It's backyards like this that make camping so great.
This post was created as part of Coleman Canada's 'Get Outside Masters' program, where we're contributing
a series of blog posts about the joys of going camping. Head over to
Get Outside Canada
to see a list of some of our favourite campgrounds, tips on choosing a great camp, and more.